G20 in Hangzhou – What did Carl Crow Think of Hangchow?

Posted: September 2nd, 2016 | No Comments »

The G20 are in Hangzhou, the Chi-Comms have not gone nuts as ever – rooftop snipers, no backpackers, fines for spitting, residents told to vamoose, rapid tart ups of streets and buildings occurred. Worth remembering perhaps what Carl Crow thought of Hangchow (Hangzhou, if you must) from his 1921 edition of the Travelers’ Handbook for China (available here in a great e-book edition with an intro my yours truly)…..

“This city with a population of 750,000 is located on the Shanghai–Hangchow–Ningpo Railway and also on the Ch’ien T’ang River, no miles southwest of Shanghai. The towing charge for a houseboat from Shanghai to the Hangchow Settlement is from $10 to $15. From the Settlement it is necessary to go by train to the city station and thence to a hotel. Several Chinese hotels serve foreign style meals but the New Hotel on the West Lake is especially recommended.

Among the renowned cities of China, Hangchow, the capital of Chekiang Province, holds a most important place. Few other cities have played such an important part in the dramatic history of the country and few others are as picturesque, though most of its ancient glories have disappeared and the city is only a fraction of the size it was in its prime. In point of historical interest Hangchow is second only to Peking, while for the beauty of its surroundings it is even now second to no other city in China.

Marco Polo came to Hangchow, following the Mongol invasion, and his description of the city shows that much of its ancient grandeur had remained and some of it had been restored. Even then, in art, literature and commerce it was the Queen City of the Orient. It was the center of Oriental fashions and gaiety. Hither came merchants, travelers, missionaries and adventurers to view the place and enjoy material delights. The account that Marco Polo gives reads almost like the stories of ancient Rome in regard to the sensual indulgences of the people.

In A.D. 1860 and again in 1862 the T’ai P’ing or Long Haired Rebels came to Hangchow and in a few months reduced nine-tenths of the city to ashes and, utter ruin. It is stated that four fifths of the inhabitants were massacred, or committed suicide, while the remainder were driven from the city. The canals were-so full of the bodies of those who had committed suicide that those later wishing to end their existence could not find sufficient water in which to drown themselves. Even the West Lake was so filled with dead bodies that one could walk out on it for a distance of a half li on them.

Since the establishment of the Republic Hangchow has made notable civic progress. The Tartar City section is one of the finest of its kind in all China. Not even in Shanghai are to be found such broad fine streets. With the building of the railway Hangchow has again become the objective of thousands of travelers and it would seem as if the new hotels could not be built fast enough to accommodate all who come. The city abounds in pleasant little gardens and parks and altogether has the air of the pleasure resort that it is.

A variety of industries are carried on in Hangchow. Among the ancient industries which have survived is the manufacture of “joss paper,” made from paper and tin foil. Even this industry has become modernized for in Hangchow they make imitations of Mexican dollars rather than the former clumsy representations of the silver sycee.

The most famous fan shop as well as the most famous, drug shop in China are to be found in this city. One wall of the fan shop is covered with certificates of awards received at foreign expositions. The drug shop is uncontaminated by modern ideas and dispenses nothing but remedies approved by the Chinese pharmacopeia. Attached to the establishment is a large number of deer cages where deer are kept. Any deer that are presented for sale are bought at once, so as to encourage the hunters. The cost per deer is from two to four hundred dollars. The shop claims that everything is used but the horns, a statement that may be skilful camouflage rather than the exact truth.

The Needle Pagoda or “Prince Shu’s Protecting Pagoda” with the other two famous pagodas of Hangchow mentioned below date back to the great building period of the Wu-Yueh Kings, approximately 950 years ago.

On the opposite or southern side of the Lake is the Thunder Peak Pagoda, also called the White Snake Pagoda. This pagoda was built by a concubine of one of the Wu-Yueh Kings, also about 950 years ago. It was originally planned to be seven stories high but for geomantic reasons it was reduced to five. Many of the pagodas in China are built in order to affect the fêng shui in other words to control weather conditions. They are often built over the bones of some Buddhist priest who was regarded as a saint. Very often there are attached to them a monastery or temple and the pagoda itself often contains many Buddhist images which are worshipped by the pilgrims who come from the countryside.

The Six Harmonies Pagoda is located on the Ch’ien T’ang River about a mile and a half from the terminal station Zahkou. It is one of the largest Pagodas in all China.

The principal points of interest on the West lake are the Imperial Island, called Ku-Shan (Solitary Hill) by the Chinese, also the lake dykes or causeways. About A.D. 1130 and later the lake and Imperial Island were made famous by the residence of the Southern Sung Emperors. In addition to visiting the various memorial halls on the island one ought to visit the public park, originally the site of one of the palaces of Emperor Ch’ien Lung. From the upper part of the park one can get a fine view of the lake.

If one has the time it is worth while to visit the Moham­medan Mosque built in the T’ang Dynasty about A.D. 630. This Mosque is one of the ancient landmarks of Hangchow. If possible it would also repay the tourist to visit the City Hill and from there get a view of the city, the bay and the Ch’ien T’ang River, also the lake and the surrounding hills. It is a view of picturesque beauty uncommon in China.”

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